My Web team buddy, Janet, and I have been working together here at King Arthur for almost 20 years. Comfortable old friends, we often like to relax at the end of the day. So late yesterday, she’s reading me the menu for today’s inaugural luncheon.
“It’s supposed to reflect Abraham Lincoln,” she said. “Seafood stew—scallops, shrimp, lobster with a puff pastry topping.”
Really, I thought. Abe Lincoln—The Railsplitter—ate lobster with puff paste topping?
“A brace of American birds: Duck breast with sour cherry chutney and herb-roasted pheasant with wild rice stuffing…”
Wild birds? That’s probably more like it.
“Molasses whipped sweet potatoes and winter vegetables...”
Well, OK—1862, molasses.
“And for dessert, cinnamon-apple spongecake and sweet cream glace.”
Perfect. Spongecake was very popular cake back in Lincoln's time, as it didn’t require any chemical leavening—just a lot of arm power.
Lightbulb moment: blog the inauguration dessert.
I eagerly Googled “cinnamon apple spongecake inauguration recipe,” knowing I’d find what I was looking for. And sure enough, there it was, direct from Arlington, Virginia’s Design Cuisine: Cinnamon Apple Sponge Cake.
I scrolled down through the recipe, “down” being the key word here. Down, down, down… Man, how can a spongecake recipe be so long? There’s nothing to it but eggs and sugar and flour...
Wait a minute: No eggs? No flour? What kind of culinary travesty is being foisted upon us on this gala day?
Turns out Design Cuisine’s version of “spongecake” is based on slices of brioche. You know, brioche—Abe Lincoln’s favorite bread. 34 slices of brioche, carefully cut into a total of 80 pieces (that’s OK, I couldn’t understand the math, either). No cake; and only a “pinch of cinnamon” in the entire “Cinnamon Apple Sponge Cake” recipe.
Hello, Design Cuisine: What part of “spongecake” don’t you understand?
Ah, well. I guess it’s up to me to plant our feet on firmer ground here. Spongecake is exactly what a jelly roll is based on; so read my jelly roll post, and click to the recipe from there. That’s your cake.
For the topping, follow these pictures. There’s no recipe; so, as President Kennedy famously said in his 1961 inaugural address, “Ask not...”
Or, as President Obama will no doubt tell us in his speech today, we need to be proactive in finding solutions to our country's challenges—which might include the challenge of following Design Cuisine’s recipe for Cinnamon Apple Sponge Cake.
Here's our handy-dandy apple peeler/corer/slicer.
Peel, core, and slice an apple...
...in under 10 seconds. Yes you can.
Cut slices in half.
I was kind of trying to follow Design Cuisine's topping instructions, so started with 4 tablespoons butter, 1/3 cup granulated sugar, and 1/4 cup water, heated in a large, shallow pan.
I added the apples...
And tossed them around in the butter mixture.
Then I just let them simmer on their own, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes. By the time the liquid boiled off, the apples were about halfway to tender. I turned off the heat, covered the pan, and went off to bake the spongecake, which takes about 30 minutes, start to finish.
Once I'd taken the spongecake out of the oven, I returned to the apples, adding a good splash of boiled cider (about 1/3 cup; or substitute frozen apple juice concentrate); 1/2 cup brown sugar; and 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon.
Stirring gently makes this aromatic apple topping.
Cut the spongecake in squares. Add warm apple. Oh, and don't forget America's favorite dessert topping: Cool Whip. So honest! Abe would have loved it.
Buy vs. Bake
Buy: Enjoying Cinnamon Apple Sponge Cake with President Obama, Vice President Biden, their families, the Supreme Court, Cabinet designees, and members of Congressional leadership in Statuary Hall, in Washington, D.C.: never mind, you can't afford it.
Bake at home: Spongecake with Apple-Cinnamon Topping, $1.22